Every question, answered.

We accept VISA, MasterCard, American Express, Discover, and PayPal.

Contact support during business hours as soon as possible. Once an order has shipped we are unable to make changes to it.

Orders placed before 8:00am PST on weekdays ship the same day; orders after 8:00am ship the next day, and weekend orders ship the following Monday. Expect delivery within 3 to 5 business days from our Las Vegas warehouse.

First check the tracking with the carrier. If the delivery still cannot be located, email us at info@semcoworks.com and we will help track it down.

Photograph the defect and email the images to info@semcoworks.com so we can review it for replacement eligibility.

You have 30 days from receipt to request a return. Items must be in original condition with intact packaging and proof of purchase. Only unopened liquids can be returned, with a 25% restocking fee; opened packages incur a 40% fee. Special orders and pigmented or color products are non-returnable, and international shipping fees are non-refundable.

Once we receive and inspect the returned item, the refund is initiated immediately. Most credit card providers then take about 5 to 7 business days to post it.

It is a flexible, elastomeric liquid-rubber membrane with up to 1300% elongation rather than a rigid masonry sealer, so it moves with the surface and works across wood, metal, tile, fiberglass, and concrete, including submerged use. Rigid masonry waterproofers are generally limited to concrete and block and can crack where the substrate moves.

Yes. SEMCO products are water-based and low-VOC, and the companion cleaners such as Stone Soap are biodegradable, making them suitable for interior and exterior use with normal ventilation.

It carries a 5-year standard limited warranty, extended to 10 years on non-traffic surfaces, when applied correctly over properly prepared surfaces.

No, and this is the rule that matters most. The substrate has to be under 3% residual moisture or the coating traps it and stays tacky instead of curing. Dry the wall first. If it never fully dries, apply Natural Shield, let it cure, then coat.

Both work. Exterior is the more durable fix because it stops water before it enters the wall, usually paired with a French drain. But most people can’t excavate, so they seal the interior instead and report the damp stopping. If you have the access, exterior is ideal; if not, interior still delivers.

If you want it to bond, yes. Basement walls carry efflorescence and mineral deposits that stop a coating adhering — that’s what Prep D removes. Skipping prep is the single most common reason a coating lifts.

Yes, once fully cured. Water-based acrylic paint goes over it fine, tile can be set over it with your usual mortar, and customers have carpeted floors sealed with it. It makes a good base layer for finishing a basement — seal first, then finish.

It’s water-based and low-VOC at 14 g/L, so it’s low odor and one of the few waterproofers people are comfortable using in a closed basement. Reviewers have specifically chosen it to work around a gas water heater. Still ventilate reasonably while you work.

Remove anything loose or flaking — the membrane needs sound substrate to bond to. If the old coating is solid and well-adhered, test a small patch first.

Plan on 200 sq ft per gallon at two coats. Porous block and rough old walls use more, so if you’re between sizes, size up. The coverage calculator on the Basement Waterproofing page works it out for you.

Outside, if you can get to it. That’s the positive side: water never enters the wall at all. Interior sealing works and is often the only practical option, but the wall stays saturated. If you’re already excavating for a drain or a repair, do it while the trench is open.

If the soil around your foundation stays saturated, yes. The coating stops water entering the wall; the drain takes it away from the wall. Customers who did both report the problem solved rather than moved.

Yes, provided it’s sound. One customer coated over original tar-based waterproofing and reported it adhered and dried well; another went over a ground-smooth epoxy repair. Remove anything loose first.

Up to ¼" on its own. Wider than that, fill it first and reinforce with fabric. One customer bought filler for a hairline crack and then found he didn’t need it.

Yes, and it’s a common use. At 14 g/L VOC there’s effectively no fume issue in an enclosed space — one customer chose it specifically so she wouldn’t have to worry about ventilation down there.

After the full cure, at least 7 days and longer in humid weather. Wet soil against an uncured film damages it. On ICF, add a dimpled membrane over the cured coating before the fill goes back.

No. Bowing, shearing or displaced block is structural and needs an engineer. A coating seals a surface — it can’t hold soil back. Get the structure sorted, then seal it.

Once fully cured, yes. It’s water-based and low-VOC at 14 g/L and cures to an inert film. Customers keep koi in ponds sealed with it, use it on birdbaths, and one has cats that drink daily from a fountain coated with it. The condition is the full cure — at least 7 days before anything lives in it, and longer in humid weather.

Three for anything submerged. That’s the single most repeated number in these reviews, and it’s why coverage is 100 sq ft per gallon rather than 200.

At least seven days, and longer if the coats went on thick or the weather is humid. Every owner who reports a failure filled early, and one traced his previous failure with a different product to exactly that.

Hairline cracks, yes — several customers sealed multi-crack concrete fountains with three coats. Anything over ¼" gets Fabric Reinforcement first. A basin that has broken structurally needs repair before coating.

Yes, once sanded with 60-grit. One customer fixed a crack in a fiberglass fountain he didn’t think was repairable, with three coats.

Galvanized takes Nu-Lift, which etches the metal. Customers have converted galvanized garden tubs into fish ponds with it, and one sealed a pond that had both rubber liner and stonework — it bonded to both.

That’s one of its better uses. Two customers built irregular ponds where a bought liner leaked, and coated the form instead.

On a garage floor, yes. The membrane waterproofs the slab and flexes with it; the sealer takes the traffic. The membrane on its own is rated for light foot traffic, which a garage is not.

Once both layers are fully cured. Seal about 2 days after the last coat of membrane. The membrane needs its full 7-day minimum cure — longer with thick coats or high humidity — and the sealer needs its own cure too. A tire on an uncured floor leaves a permanent mark.

Degrease them before you do anything else. Prep D lifts mineral deposits and efflorescence, not oil — and nothing bonds to a slab that still has oil in it.

Epoxy is one rigid layer doing two jobs. It’s hard enough for traffic but too brittle to move with the slab, which is why it lifts at the edges. This splits the job: a flexible waterproof layer underneath, a wear layer on top.

Yes — sealing the surface is what stops the powdering. One customer used it specifically to slow the deterioration on a dusting cement garage floor.

Yes, same product and same Prep D. Choose “floor & walls” in the coverage calculator on the Garage Floors page and it sizes both. Walls need no sealer over the top — only the floor does.

A gloss floor can be when wet, which is why Non-Skid Additive is ticked by default in the Garage Floors page calculator. It mixes into the sealer before you roll, so it has to be decided at the time.

Not with Non-Skid Additive, which is why it’s ticked by default in the Pool Decks page calculator. It mixes into the sealer before you roll, so it has to go in at the time — it can’t be added later. Matte also reads less slick than gloss around a pool.

A lighter color will. White tests at SRI 64 under ASTM E1980 against roughly 20 for weathered dark concrete, so it reflects far more solar heat. One owner reported his deck no longer feels as hot barefoot in summer after sealing it.

If the deck is sound and you only want protection and color, the sealer alone will do a lot. The membrane underneath is what actually waterproofs the slab against splash-out and freeze-thaw — worth it on an older deck, or anywhere that freezes.

Same system. A customer coated worn bare coping around an in-ground pool and said it made the pool look new. Add the coping area in the coverage calculator on the Pool Decks page.

Normal splash-out is fine. What to avoid is concentration — don’t let undissolved tablets or granules sit on the deck surface, as a high local concentration can discolor the finish in that spot.

Yes. Pavers, brick and flagstone all work, and one customer used Titan Shield on pavers for a children’s play area. Textured surfaces use noticeably more material than their footprint suggests.

Seal about 2 days after the last coat of membrane, then let everything cure — the membrane needs 7 days minimum, longer with thick coats or humidity, and the sealer needs its own cure. Plan the job for a stretch you’re not using the pool.

The buried side is better if you can reach it — it stops water before it enters the block. But most people can’t excavate, and coating the exposed face works: customers have sealed block walls from the accessible side and reported no leaks months later, with one calling an exterior repair near impossible.

Yes, once the surface is sealed the salts have no route out. Clear the existing efflorescence with Nu-Lift first — coating over it means bonding to a layer that’s already letting go.

Yes, with Prep E — sand with 60-grit, no cleaner. Bare timber drinks the first coat, so plan on three coats and roughly 100 sq ft per gallon rather than 200.

Treat it as submerged: three coats. Customers have lined concrete planters and stripped-back timber boxes with it, including one that was leaking through failed TPO.

Sealing reduces what comes through, but a retaining wall should still have drainage. If yours has none and the soil stays saturated, add a drain at the base while you have the wall exposed.

It’s water-based and low-VOC at 14 g/L, and cures to an inert film. Let it cure fully before soil or water goes back against it.

No. Leaning, bulging or displaced block is a structural problem — the wall needs rebuilding or proper drainage first. A coating seals a surface; it can’t hold back soil.

That’s the main reason people use it. Because you coat the whole surface rather than a suspected spot, you don’t need to locate the entry point — and you can skip the two-person hose test entirely.

Yes, on EPDM and rubber, asphalt shingle, torch-down and bitumen, metal, concrete roof decks, gutters and valleys, or plywood and timber decking, provided it’s cleaned with the right pair first and the existing surface is sound. What it can’t do is fix rotted decking or structural failure.

Yes. Corrugated profile has meaningfully more actual surface than its flat footprint, so plan on roughly 25% more material. Tick the corrugated box in the coverage calculator on the Roof Waterproofing page and it adjusts for you.

In the Roof Waterproofing page calculator, choose “already coated, chemistry unknown” and you’ll get Prep C — Power Cleaner then Nu-Lift, designed for non water-based or unknown coatings. The exception is silicone, where adhesion can be unreliable; test a small area first.

On seams, laps, edges, fasteners and penetrations, yes. That’s where roofs leak. It’s pre-ticked in the Roof Waterproofing page calculator for that reason.

For heat, yes. White tests at SRI 64 under ASTM E1980, against roughly 20 for a typical black asphalt roof — so a white roof reflects considerably more solar heat into the sky rather than into the building.

It has to go on a dry surface, so you can’t coat during active leaking. Wait for a dry spell, clean, coat, and give it the cure window.

Yes — those are the two places metal roofs let go. Clean with Prep D (Nu-Lift, then Stone Soap), which also etches the metal so the membrane bonds. Press Fabric Reinforcement into the first wet coat over seams, laps and fastener lines, then roll two coats over the whole roof. Apply on a dry day, never during an active leak.

No primer, ever — prep does that job. Scrape or wire-brush loose and flaking rust back to sound metal, then use Prep D: Nu-Lift etches the metal and lifts oxidation, and Stone Soap removes the residue. Let it dry fully before coating. Metal rusted through needs patching or replacing first.

Caulk and roof cement are spot fixes, and they harden and crack at exactly the joints that move. A flexible membrane over the whole roof keeps moving with it, and because it covers everything you don’t have to find the leak first.

Yes. The 5-year warranty covers mobile applications, so it holds on a roof that travels at highway speed. Most coatings sold for RVs quote one to three years of expected life and don’t warrant vehicle use at all.

No. No primer for any of the four roof types. What you do need is the correct cleaning — the calculator on the RV page picks the right pair from your roof type and whether it’s been coated before.

Wipe it with a damp white rag. Chalky white residue means EPDM. Clean rag and a smoother surface is likely TPO. A hard, rigid one-piece surface is fiberglass. Metal is obvious. If you’re unsure, answer “yes or I don’t know” to the coating question in the RV page calculator — that routes you to the heavy-duty prep, which is the safe answer.

Only when it needs it. There’s no annual reapplication built in, which is the main difference from lap sealant — that needs inspecting and topping up every year or two by design.

Enter your rig’s length in the RV page calculator and it works out the roof area at a typical 8 ft width, then sizes it at 200 sq ft per gallon over two coats. A gallon covers a small trailer roof. A badly weathered roof may take a third coat, so size up if you’re between.

Once fully cured, yes, for maintenance access. Dry to touch in about an hour, initial cure at least 7 days.

No — and this is the honest answer. A soft spot means water has reached the structure, and a coating seals surfaces rather than rebuilding them. Get the damage repaired, then coat the roof to stop it happening again.

No. Coat over the existing EPDM, TPO, fiberglass or metal as long as it’s sound. Original, never-coated roofs get Prep B (Power Cleaner, then Stone Soap). If it’s been coated before, or you’re not sure, use Prep C (Power Cleaner, then Nu-Lift) and remove anything loose or flaking.

Brush around them first, and press Fabric Reinforcement into the first wet coat over every vent, fan, A/C flange, skylight and the front and rear cap joints. Those are the high-movement spots where RV roofs leak. Then roll the field coats over the top.

Primary. It’s certified to DIN EN 14891:2017-05, the standard for liquid-applied waterproofing beneath bonded ceramic tile. No separate pan liner or sheet membrane underneath — you coat the enclosure and tile onto it.

Yes, with standard thinset once it’s dry. Several customers tiled the next day, and one described mortar bonding to it as if it were concrete.

Mainly that you can see it. With sheet systems the seams are bedded in thinset and hidden, so you find out later. A liquid membrane lets you inspect the surface under a light, find a thin spot and fix it before a tile goes on.

It’s water-based at 14 g/L VOC. The comparison people keep drawing is with the odor of the red roll-on products — an open window is enough here.

Yes, if the tile is sound. Clean it thoroughly first with Nu-Lift and Stone Soap to remove soap residue, water deposits and mold. One customer did exactly that on dated bathroom wall tile.

Same system. Get the slope right first, reinforce the wall-to-pan junction, the curb and around the drain flange with fabric, then coat. Customers have coated sloped plywood pans and mud decks alike.

About 200 sq ft per gallon at two coats on backer board. Bare wood takes three coats and roughly half that. A standard 3 × 5 ft shower is around 110 sq ft including the pan — the coverage calculator on the Shower Waterproofing page works it out.

A customer who worried about exactly that reported it wasn’t. In any case a shower pan is normally tiled over, so the membrane isn’t the walking surface.

Yes. Cement board tolerates water but doesn’t stop it — moisture passes straight through to the wall behind. The membrane over the board and its seams is what keeps water out. Embed Fabric Reinforcement on every board joint and the floor-to-wall joint before you coat.

Apply at least two thin, even coats, rolling each in a different direction, and let the first hold no fingerprint before the second goes on. Then check the whole enclosure under a bright light before any tile goes on — a pinhole is a leak, and it’s a two-minute fix while you can still see it.

After the full cure: 7 days minimum, longer in cool or humid weather. Tiling can happen once it’s dry, but standing water has to wait for the cure.

Both are liquid membranes that go under tile. SEMCO is certified to DIN EN 14891 as primary waterproofing beneath tile, has up to 1,300% elongation, and isn’t limited to showers — the same product does pools, decks, roofs and below-grade walls.

Use cement or backer board in any wet area rather than drywall, then coat the board. Standard and moisture-resistant (green) drywall aren’t made for a wet enclosure, and anything already water-damaged should come out before you start.

At normal pool chemistry, no. What can cause a problem is concentration — heavy shocking, free chlorine allowed to run high, or undissolved tablets and granules sitting directly on the surface. That can bleach or discolor the coating in that spot, and it isn’t reversible. Dose through the skimmer or a floater and keep chlorine and pH in their normal ranges.

Submerged color behaves differently from color on a wall. The Activator is mixed into the membrane before you roll it, one container per container of membrane, matched to the same size and color. The coverage calculator on the Swimming Pool Waterproofing page adds it automatically.

Three coats at roughly 20 mil each, 60 mil total. That means a gallon covers about 100 sq ft rather than the 200 you’d get on a wall. A typical 16 × 32 ft pool is around 1,000 sq ft of wetted area.

At least 7 days, and longer if the coats went on thick or the weather is humid. Filling early is the most common way this job fails.

Over sound plaster, yes — that’s one of its better uses, since it avoids a full replaster. Remove anything chalking or delaminating first; the membrane bonds to what’s solid, not to plaster that’s already letting go.

Sand the whole surface with 60-grit first, then Prep B. Chalky gelcoat needs taking back before you coat.

No. Structural cracking, shell movement or a failed bond beam all need proper repair first. This seals a sound surface — it can’t hold one together. It also isn’t for vinyl-liner pools.

Clean the walkway with SEMCO cleaners and apply a penetrating sealer like Natural Shield, or a film-forming sealer such as Titan Shield Gloss for added protection.

Yes. Use SEMCO PreStain Color to add durable, water-based color before sealing the walkway.

Yes. Adding the Non-Skid Additive to the sealer improves traction on walkways that get wet.

On bare wood, plan on roughly 100 sq ft per gallon at three coats — about half what a sealed surface gives, because timber absorbs the first coat. The coverage calculator on the Wood Decks & Balcony page uses that figure by default. If your deck has a sound existing coating, it goes further.

Yes. The membrane bonds to bare timber, not to a stain that’s already letting go. 60-grit, and take it all off — this is the step that decides whether the job lasts.

A sealed deck can be, which is why Non-Skid Additive is ticked by default in the Wood Decks & Balcony page calculator. It mixes into the sealer before you roll, so it has to go in at the time — it can’t be added later.

Not until it’s fully cured. Seal about 2 days after the last coat of membrane, then give the membrane its full 7-day minimum cure — longer with thick coats or high humidity — before furniture or foot traffic. A customer’s own advice: this is not paint, give it the time.

Coat the edges and end grain as you go — that’s where water gets into a board. Fabric Reinforcement at board joints and at the wall junction is worth the extra hour.

It encapsulates the boards rather than staining them, so it reads as an even colored surface rather than visible grain. One customer chose it specifically to make pine look closer to composite decking.

Longer than a weekend if you do it properly. Sand, three coats of membrane, wait about 2 days, then three coats of sealer — and let it all cure. One customer spread it over two months around rain and family — and got the cure right as a result.

Yes. Sand with 60-grit (Prep E), then coat every face you can reach — especially the edges and end grain, which drink water first and swell. Bare wood takes three coats at roughly 100 sq ft per gallon. Fabric Reinforcement goes over sheet joints.

Not if you start dry. Coat only wood that is fully dry, and seal the exposed edges so water can’t get in from an uncoated side. Don’t coat over sheathing that is already wet or soft — dry it out or replace it first.

Crystal Coat is a water-based floor rejuvenator made with latex-polymer technology that restores shine and protection to worn floors and links to most topcoats.

It is formulated for hardwood, laminate, and VCT/linoleum floors, bringing back shine without the cost of replacement.

One quart covers up to about 213 sq ft, one gallon up to about 850 sq ft, and a 5-gallon up to about 4,250 sq ft.

A single application lasts up to about 8 months, after which it can be reapplied to maintain the finish.

Yes. It is a water-based, DIY-friendly product that applies easily and is low-odor and eco-friendly.

Fabric Reinforcement is a reinforcing fabric embedded between coats of SEMCO Liquid Membrane to add tensile strength at seams, joints, cracks, and high-stress areas.

Use it at seams, corners, transitions, and cracks, and under ceramic tile or stone, where movement or stress could otherwise cause the membrane to fail.

It is available in a 6-inch by 75-foot roll for detailing seams and joints, and a 29.5-inch by 100-foot roll for larger field areas.

The Color Activator is additional color pigment for SEMCO Liquid Membrane, used to deepen or adjust color, and is recommended for submerged applications.

Add it when you want stronger color or are coating a submerged surface such as a pool or fountain, where extra pigment improves appearance and coverage.

It comes in the same palette as Liquid Membrane, including White, Rockslide Grey, Monday Grey, Black Pearl, and Cove Blue, among others.

Natural Shield is a water-based, penetrating waterproofing sealer with a low-molecular-weight formula that soaks into porous surfaces to repel water without changing their appearance.

It is designed for concrete, block, brick, stucco, mortar, natural stone, and tile, increasing their lifespan and water resistance. It works as an invisible penetrating sealer on both interior and exterior surfaces.

One gallon covers up to about 350 sq ft, and a 5-gallon covers up to about 1,750 sq ft. Coverage varies with how porous and absorbent the surface is.

Yes. Unlike many sealers, Natural Shield can be applied even on damp surfaces, which makes it well suited to below-grade and hard-to-dry masonry.

No. It penetrates and seals invisibly, preserving the natural appearance of brick, stone, or concrete rather than leaving a glossy film.

Nu-Lift Cleaner is a biodegradable, user-friendly mineral-acid cleaner that removes dirt, alkalinity, efflorescence, hard-water deposits, and stains from masonry and stone.

It cleans and etches concrete, grout, and natural stone during surface prep, removing mineral deposits so coatings and sealers bond properly.

One quart covers up to about 125 sq ft, one gallon up to about 500 sq ft, and a 5-gallon up to about 2,500 sq ft.

No. It uses an environmentally responsible mineral acid designed to clean and etch without harming or discoloring the surface when used as directed.

Power Cleaner is a highly concentrated, commercial-strength cleaner, degreaser, and wax remover for surface preparation before sealing or waterproofing.

It removes oil, grease, and wax from concrete, ceramic tile, pool decks, driveways, and natural stone, and is a key surface-prep step before applying SEMCO coatings.

One quart covers up to about 250 sq ft, one gallon up to about 1,000 sq ft, and a 5-gallon up to about 5,000 sq ft, diluted per the instructions.

It is a water-based cleaner intended for professional and industrial cleaning; follow the label for dilution and safe handling.

PreStain Color is a water-based, reactive and penetrating color system that delivers rich, lasting color on interior, exterior, and below-grade concrete and masonry.

Yes. In addition to coloring, PreStain helps solidify and consolidate crumbling or weak concrete and masonry surfaces.

One quart covers about 50 to 75 sq ft at two coats, with coverage depending on surface porosity and the depth of color desired.

Yes. It is a water-based, environmentally friendly stain that avoids the fumes and hazards of traditional acid stains.

It is available in a wide range of decorative concrete colors, from Grey Marble and Montego Stone to Espresso Bean and other natural tones.

It is fully waterproof. Once cured it forms a continuous, seamless elastomeric membrane with no seams or joints for water to get through, and at three coats it is rated for permanent submersion.

It bonds to concrete, plywood and natural wood, stone, metal and aluminum, ceramic tile, CMU/concrete block, fiberglass, ICF, drywall, and RV roofing. The surface must be clean and its moisture content should not exceed 3%. No separate primer is required.

Two coats for standard waterproofing. Three coats for anything submerged, like pools and fountains, and for bare wood decks, which absorb the first coat.

About 200 sq ft per gallon at two coats, and about 100 sq ft per gallon at three coats for submerged work or bare wood. Porous block, rough walls, seams, corners and cracks all take extra material, so if you’re between sizes, size up. The 5-gallon pail is the most cost-effective size per square foot.

Recoat as soon as it holds no fingerprint — about 25 to 45 minutes at 72°F, so all coats go on the same day. It’s dry to the touch in 1 to 2 hours at about 70°F. Sealers such as Titan Shield Gloss or Sealer MATTE can go on about 2 days after the last coat. Allow a 7-day minimum cure before water contact, traffic or filling a pool, and longer in cool or humid weather.

Yes, it is designed for DIY. Apply it with a half-inch nap roller or brush for most projects, or an airless sprayer at a minimum of about 2,500 PSI for large jobs. The key to success is proper surface prep and thin, even coats.

Apply between 50°F and 85°F, out of direct sun. On a hot surface or in full sun the coating skins over before it bonds, which leads to blistering and weak adhesion, so work in shade or the cooler part of the day. Make sure no rain or dew is due before it sets.

Moisture needs to be 3% or lower. Use a concrete moisture meter, or tape an 18 × 18 in sheet of clear plastic tightly to the surface for at least 16 hours (the ASTM D4263 test). Condensation under the sheet, or a darkened patch, means it is still too wet to coat.

Use SEMCO Fabric Reinforcement. It is made to be pressed into the wet membrane and fully encapsulated, and it’s what SEMCO’s application guidance is written around. Use it on cracks wider than ¼", board joints, wall-to-floor junctions, seams, flashing and vents.

It can. Coat the side the water comes from wherever you can reach it, and let the other side breathe. On an interior basement wall with no outside access, coat the inside face only and keep the room’s humidity under control rather than sealing both faces.

14 g/L. It is a water-based, low-VOC formula — low odor, and suitable for basements, showers and other enclosed spaces with normal ventilation.

Both are flexible liquid membranes. SEMCO is water-based at 14 g/L VOC, needs no primer on any surface — including EPDM and TPO, where Liquid Rubber recommends a separate primer — and publishes its test methods: 1,300% elongation (ASTM D412) and 173 PSI adhesion at 7 days, rising to 234 PSI at 4 weeks (ANSI A118.10).

It is highly elastomeric, with up to 1300% elongation, so it stretches and bridges cracks instead of cracking with the substrate. This is why it holds up on decks, balconies, and roofs through movement and freeze-thaw cycles.

Yes. It is fully UV-resistant and suitable for permanently exposed exterior applications, so it does not need a protective topcoat to survive sunlight.

Yes. It is a low-VOC, water-based membrane rated for permanent submersion, widely used on swimming pools, ponds, and fountains. Apply three coats with Color Activator and allow the full cure — 7 days minimum, longer in cool or humid weather — before filling.

About 15 colors, including Semi-Clear, White, Rockslide Grey, Monday Grey, Black Pearl, Cove Blue, Sapphire Bay, Sandy Beige, Honey Maple, Arizona Sun, Brown Slate, Sequoia Brown, Barn Red, Hunter Green, and SEMCO Orange.

It carries a 5-year standard limited warranty, extended to 10 years on non-traffic surfaces. Applied correctly over prepared surfaces, the cured membrane is a long-term waterproofing solution.

SEMCO Sealer Matte is a high-performance, single-component water-based sealer that delivers a natural matte finish with UV stability and long-lasting durability.

It protects concrete, stone, tile, and microcement, sealing the surface without adding a glossy sheen.

Yes. It is UV-stable and durable, making it suitable for exterior surfaces that stay exposed to sunlight.

It leaves a natural, low-sheen matte finish that preserves the look of the surface while adding protection.

Stone Soap is a highly concentrated, 100% biodegradable, pH-neutral cleaner formulated to clean finished surfaces without harming them.

It safely cleans natural stone, concrete, tile, and other finished surfaces, and is used as a prep step alongside Power Cleaner or Nu-Lift Cleaner.

One quart covers up to about 250 sq ft, one gallon up to about 1,000 sq ft, and a 5-gallon up to about 5,000 sq ft, diluted per the label.

Yes. Its pH-neutral, biodegradable formula cleans without stripping or damaging sealed or finished surfaces.

Titan Shield Gloss is an advanced single-component, water-based polyurethane-hybrid sealer that gives cementitious surfaces a durable, protective gloss finish.

It is ideal for concrete, micro-toppings, pavers, block, and polished concrete, sealing and protecting the surface while enhancing its appearance.

Yes. On pool decks and similar surfaces it helps reduce surface heat while sealing and protecting against weather.

Yes. Add the SEMCO Titan Shield Non-Skid Additive to the sealer to improve traction on floors, ramps, and pool decks.

Yes. It comes in clear plus a range of colors such as Rockslide Grey, White, Sequoia Brown, and Sandy Beige.

It is an anti-slip additive that mixes into SEMCO sealer to add traction on smooth surfaces like floors, ramps, and pool decks.

Stir it into the sealer before application; one version is sized for a 1-gallon batch and another for a 5-gallon batch of sealer.

Use it anywhere slip resistance matters, such as pool decks, walkways, ramps, and garage or patio floors.