SEMCO Sealer MATTE

You’ll need: a degreaser · Nu-Lift Cleaner · Stone Soap

1. Degrease oil and transmission stains first. No coating bonds to oil, and Prep D isn’t a degreaser.
2. Wet the slab, apply Nu-Lift Cleaner and work it in with a stiff brush to lift efflorescence and mineral deposits.
3. Rinse thoroughly.
4. Follow with Stone Soap to clear the residue and rebalance the surface pH, then rinse again.
5. Let the slab dry completely. Concrete holds water long after the surface looks dry.

You’ll need: Fabric Reinforcement · Liquid Membrane

1. Fill anything wider than ¼" with a suitable filler first.
2. Coat the crack or joint generously, lay Fabric Reinforcement into the wet film, press it flat.
3. Wait 10–15 minutes, then coat over it to encapsulate.

Each coat: 15–20 mil. Keep every coat in that range — thicker traps moisture and stays tacky, thinner leaves the membrane short of waterproof.

1. Stir well — pigments settle and unstirred product gives uneven color.
2. ½" nap roller on an extension pole; cut in the edges with a brush.
3. Recoat when it holds no fingerprint. Second coat perpendicular to the first, same day.
4. Inspect for pinholes and thin spots before you stop.

Wait about 2 days after the last coat of membrane, then seal: three coats of Titan Shield Gloss or two of Sealer MATTE, about 6–8 mil per coat, with Non-Skid Additive mixed in. The membrane still needs its full 7-day cure before heavy use.

You’ll need: Stone Soap · stiff nylon brush · pump sprayer

Prep A is for dirt and grime, and for new concrete that has fully cured (about a month).

1. Sweep or blow off loose debris.
2. Mix 1 part Stone Soap to 4 parts water.

1. Lightly dampen the surface with water first — it stops the cleaner soaking deep into the pores.
2. Apply the Stone Soap mix with a pump sprayer and let it sit 2–3 minutes.
3. Scrub with a nylon brush or scrub machine.
4. Rinse well and make sure no residue is left.

Let the surface dry completely before any SEMCO coating goes on — below 3% residual moisture.

You’ll need: Power Cleaner · Stone Soap · nylon brush · pump sprayer

Prep B is for grease, oil, weathering and tough build-up — and for EPDM, TPO, shingle and bitumen roofs, and for re-prepping cured SEMCO membrane before an extra coat.

1. Power Cleaner: 1 part to 4 parts water.
2. Stone Soap: 1 part to 4 parts water.

1. Lightly dampen the surface with water.
2. Apply the Power Cleaner mix with a pump sprayer and let it sit 2–3 minutes.
3. Scrub with a nylon brush or scrub machine.
4. Rinse well until no residue is left.

Repeat the same steps with the Stone Soap mix. It lifts the chemical residue Power Cleaner leaves behind and rebalances the surface pH.

Let the surface dry completely — below 3% residual moisture — before coating.

You’ll need: Power Cleaner · Nu-Lift Cleaner · nylon brush · pump sprayer

Prep C is for surfaces with a non-water-based coating, or one you can’t identify.

1. Power Cleaner solution 1: 1 part to 4 parts water.
2. Nu-Lift solution: 1 part to 1 part water.
3. Power Cleaner solution 2: 1 part to 9 parts water.

1. Lightly dampen the surface with water.
2. Apply Power Cleaner solution 1, let it sit 2–3 minutes, scrub, and rinse well.
3. Repeat with the Nu-Lift solution.
4. Finish with Power Cleaner solution 2, then rinse until no residue is left.

Let it dry completely, then coat a small test patch before the full job.

You’ll need: Nu-Lift Cleaner · Stone Soap · nylon brush

Prep D is for efflorescence, mineral deposits and oxidation — basements, block, brick, stucco, weathered concrete — and for metal, which Nu-Lift etches so the coating bonds.

1. Remove loose paint, dust and debris.
2. Lightly wet the surface with water.

1. Apply Nu-Lift Cleaner undiluted and let it sit 2–3 minutes.
2. Scrub with a nylon brush or scrub machine.
3. Rinse well.

1. Mix 1 part Stone Soap to 4 parts water, apply and let it sit 2–3 minutes.
2. Scrub, then rinse until no residue is left.

Stone Soap clears the residue Nu-Lift released and rebalances the surface pH.

Let it dry completely — hours, not minutes — to below 3% residual moisture.

You’ll need: Nu-Lift Cleaner · Stone Soap · Power Cleaner if oily

1. New concrete, fully cured (about a month): Prep A — Stone Soap.
2. Mineral deposits or efflorescence: Prep D — Nu-Lift, then Stone Soap.
3. Oil or grease: Prep B first — Power Cleaner, then Stone Soap.
4. Existing or unknown coating: Prep C — Power Cleaner, Nu-Lift, Power Cleaner, then a test patch.
5. Let it dry completely — below 3% residual moisture.

Mask everything that isn’t being sealed. Pull the tape before the sealer fully cures.

You’ll need: ¼" woven roller or airless sprayer (17 tip)

1. Stir well before use.
2. Roll on a thin, even first coat. It goes on white or milky and dries to a natural matte finish.
3. Let it dry — about 30–45 minutes, up to 2 hours when humid.
4. Apply a minimum of two coats, about 6–8 mil each. No separate primer — it’s self-priming.

Full cure takes about 18 hours at 90°F and up to 48 hours at 45°F. Keep traffic off until then.

You’ll need: Non-Skid Additive · Titan Shield Gloss or Sealer MATTE

1. Lightly shake the Non-Skid container.
2. Empty it into the matching container of sealer — one per gallon or per 5-gallon pail.
3. Mix thoroughly.

Prep and apply the sealer following its own instructions — three coats of Titan Shield Gloss or two of Sealer MATTE. Keep stirring as you go so the grit stays mixed through.

Keep traffic off until the sealer has fully cured.