Garage floor · SEMCO Titan Shield Gloss
Projects › Garage Floors
A garage floor has two jobs. Most coatings only do one.
It has to stop water and dusting coming up through the slab, and survive tires, jack stands and road salt on top. One rigid layer can't do both — which is why epoxy lifts. Split the job and it lasts.
A weekend, not a contractor
Four steps. Two products.
The membrane waterproofs and seals the slab. The sealer over it takes the tires, the jack stands and the road salt.
Clean the slab
Degrease oil spots, then Prep D — Nu-Lift lifts efflorescence and mineral deposits, Stone Soap clears the residue and rebalances the surface pH.
Bridge the joints
Fabric Reinforcement into cracks over ¼", control joints, and the line where the slab meets the wall plate — a common leak point.
Two coats of membrane
½" nap roller on an extension pole. Second coat perpendicular to the first, same day. This is the layer that stops water and dusting.
Seal it for traffic
Once the membrane is fully cured, three coats of Titan Shield Gloss or Sealer MATTE. A garage floor carries vehicles, so this step isn’t optional.
Don’t skip the sealer on a garage floorThe membrane is rated for light foot traffic. A garage carries vehicle weight, point loads from jacks, dropped tools and road salt in winter — that’s what the topcoat is for. One customer has had Titan Shield down for five years after other sealants peeled off easily.
Your garage
What does your garage need?
Floor area, and walls too if you’re doing them. We’ll size the membrane, the Prep D cleaners and the sealer.
What are you coating?
Subterranean and partially below-grade garages often need the walls as much as the slab.
Enter your areas
Floor: length × width. Walls: each wall’s length × height, added together.
Sealer finish
Both give the same protection. Gloss is the tougher of the two and the usual choice for a garage.
Enter your floor area — we’ll work out exactly what the job needs.
Untick anything you already have. Quantities are editable.
What it fixes
Dusting, cracking and the water under your car.
Bare concrete sheds fine powder that gets on everything. Sealing the surface stops the deterioration — a customer used it specifically to slow the dusting on a cement garage floor.
Prep D: Nu-Lift + Stone SoapThe membrane seals fine cracks as it goes. Anything over ¼" gets fabric first, and control joints should be reinforced whether they look open or not.
Fabric ReinforcementWater off a car soaks straight into an unsealed slab and carries salt with it. Sealed, it stays on top and sweeps out.
Membrane + sealerWater gets in between the slab and the bottom plate of the wall. Several customers found their leak exactly there — reinforce it.
Fabric ReinforcementDamp block walls as well as the floor. One owner sealed both after mold remediation in a subterranean garage that was “a humid mess”.
Prep D on walls and floorA slab that is heaving, sinking or structurally cracked. That’s a foundation problem — a coating seals a surface, it can’t stabilise one.
Real garages
Floors that stopped shedding.
“My subterranean garage was a humid mess.”
Love it. It works! Excellent product. Responsive company. My subterranean garage was a humid mess. After mold remediation and priming, the SEMCO Liquid Membrane now protects the concrete walls and floor. Smooth application. Good drying time. Great colours.
“So much easier to clean now.”
Did the playground for my kids in the backyard with the Titan Shield on pavers and it holds up great! Also did my garage with it and it is holding up fine. So much easier to clean now.
“All of them peeled off easily.”
This is the right product for me. In fact, I re-ordered another 5 gals of the Liquid Membrane for my patio. I started using the Titan Shield 5 years ago for my old house garage in Minnesota. I sold the house and now living in Illinois. I have tried different sealants and waterproofing liquid membranes before but all of them peeled off easily.
“I used this product to slow the deterioration.”
I used this product to slow the deterioration (dusting) of a cement garage floor. It worked well for that.
“A small leak between our slab and the bottom plate of a wall.”
After a recent rain storm we found that we had a small leak between our slab and the bottom plate of a wall. This product is easy to apply, water tight and has been holding up great so far.
“Estimate amount was on point, so I didn’t have waste.”
My shed slab was in rough condition. The Semco product went on with ease, had great coverage, no offensive odor, estimate amount was on point, so I didn’t have waste. Great product and good value!
Why garage coatings fail
Most of them are one layer doing two jobs.
A garage floor has to do two different things at once. It has to stop water and vapour coming up through the slab, and it has to survive tires, jack stands, dropped sockets and winter salt. One rigid coating trying to do both is why so many peel: epoxy is hard enough for the traffic but too brittle to move with the slab, so it lifts at the edges and delaminates in sheets.
Splitting the job fixes it. A flexible membrane underneath handles the water and the slab’s movement; a sealer on top takes the wear. That’s why the recommendation here is two products rather than one — and why a customer who’d had other sealants peel off easily still has Titan Shield down after five years.
The full version
Detailed application instructions.
01 Degrease, then Prep D
You’ll need: a degreaser · Nu-Lift Cleaner · Stone Soap
- Degrease oil and transmission stains first. No coating bonds to oil, and Prep D isn’t a degreaser.
- Wet the slab, apply Nu-Lift Cleaner and work it in with a stiff brush to lift efflorescence and mineral deposits.
- Rinse thoroughly.
- Follow with Stone Soap to clear the residue and rebalance the surface pH, then rinse again.
- Let the slab dry completely. Concrete holds water long after the surface looks dry.
02 Reinforce cracks and joints
You’ll need: Fabric Reinforcement · Liquid Membrane
- Fill anything wider than ¼" with a suitable filler first.
- Coat the crack or joint generously, lay Fabric Reinforcement into the wet film, press it flat.
- Wait 10–15 minutes, then coat over it to encapsulate.
03 Two coats of membrane
- Stir well — pigments settle and unstirred product gives uneven color.
- ½" nap roller on an extension pole; cut in the edges with a brush.
- Recoat when it holds no fingerprint. Second coat perpendicular to the first, same day.
- Inspect for pinholes and thin spots before you stop.
04 Cure, then seal
Initial cure is at least 7 days, and longer if the coats went on thick or the air is humid. Then three coats of Titan Shield Gloss or Sealer MATTE with Non-Skid Additive mixed in.
| Membrane coverage | ~200 sq ft per gallon at 2 coats |
| Titan Shield Gloss | ~150 sq ft per gallon at 3 coats |
| SEMCO Sealer MATTE | ~120 sq ft per gallon at 2 coats |
| Initial cure | 7 days minimum before the sealer · longer if humid |
| Temperature | 50–90°F · not in direct afternoon sun or over 85°F |
| Prep | Prep D — degrease oil stains first |
Garage questions
The ones worth asking.
Do I need both the membrane and the sealer?
On a garage floor, yes. The membrane waterproofs the slab and flexes with it; the sealer takes the traffic. The membrane on its own is rated for light foot traffic, which a garage is not.
Can I park on it?
Once both layers are fully cured. Initial cure on the membrane is at least 7 days, longer with thick coats or high humidity, and the sealer needs its own cure after that. A tire on an uncured floor leaves a permanent mark.
What about oil stains?
Degrease them before you do anything else. Prep D lifts mineral deposits and efflorescence, not oil — and nothing bonds to a slab that still has oil in it.
How is this different from an epoxy kit?
Epoxy is one rigid layer doing two jobs. It’s hard enough for traffic but too brittle to move with the slab, which is why it lifts at the edges. This splits the job: a flexible waterproof layer underneath, a wear layer on top.
Will it stop my floor dusting?
Yes — sealing the surface is what stops the powdering. One customer used it specifically to slow the deterioration on a dusting cement garage floor.
My garage is below grade and damp. Can I do the walls too?
Yes, same product and same Prep D. Choose “floor & walls” in the calculator and it sizes both. Walls need no sealer over the top — only the floor does.
Will it be slippery?
A gloss floor can be when wet, which is why Non-Skid Additive is ticked by default. It mixes into the sealer before you roll, so it has to be decided at the time.
Not sure about your slab? Call 1-833-211-2297 — the team will check moisture, prep and cure timing before you start.
Before you start
Additional information.
The manufacturer notes that decide whether this goes well. Most of the problems people report trace back to one of these.
Stop sweeping up your floor. Seal it.
Dusting, salt stains, water under the car, cracks that keep opening — all of it is an unsealed slab doing what unsealed slabs do.
Size my garage