Titan Shield Non-Skid Additive

Prep E · 60-grit · no cleaner

1. Pressure wash to remove dirt, algae and loose fibres.
2. Sand off every trace of old stain, sealer or paint with 60-grit. The coating bonds to bare timber, not to what was on it.
3. Vacuum or blow off all dust.
4. Let the wood dry fully — days, not hours, after washing. Wood holds water long after the surface looks dry.

You’ll need: Fabric Reinforcement · Liquid Membrane

End grain is the thirstiest part of any board and the first place rot starts. Treat it before you coat the field.

1. Coat the joint, board end or transition generously.
2. Lay Fabric Reinforcement into the wet coating and press it flat.
3. Wait 10–15 minutes, then coat over it to encapsulate.

Each coat: 15–20 mil. Keep every coat in that range — thicker traps moisture and stays tacky, thinner leaves the membrane short of waterproof.

1. Stir the product well — pigments settle and unstirred product gives uneven color.
2. First coat goes into the timber and will look thin. That’s the wood drinking it, and it’s normal.
3. Recoat when it holds no fingerprint. Run each coat perpendicular to the last.
4. Three coats on bare wood. Inspect for thin spots — it dries lighter, which makes them easy to see.

Wait about 2 days after the last coat of membrane, then seal: three coats of Titan Shield Gloss or two of Sealer MATTE, about 6–8 mil per coat, with Non-Skid Additive mixed in. The membrane still needs its full 7-day cure before heavy use.

You’ll need: a degreaser · Nu-Lift Cleaner · Stone Soap

1. Degrease oil and transmission stains first. No coating bonds to oil, and Prep D isn’t a degreaser.
2. Wet the slab, apply Nu-Lift Cleaner and work it in with a stiff brush to lift efflorescence and mineral deposits.
3. Rinse thoroughly.
4. Follow with Stone Soap to clear the residue and rebalance the surface pH, then rinse again.
5. Let the slab dry completely. Concrete holds water long after the surface looks dry.

You’ll need: Fabric Reinforcement · Liquid Membrane

1. Fill anything wider than ¼" with a suitable filler first.
2. Coat the crack or joint generously, lay Fabric Reinforcement into the wet film, press it flat.
3. Wait 10–15 minutes, then coat over it to encapsulate.

Each coat: 15–20 mil. Keep every coat in that range — thicker traps moisture and stays tacky, thinner leaves the membrane short of waterproof.

1. Stir well — pigments settle and unstirred product gives uneven color.
2. ½" nap roller on an extension pole; cut in the edges with a brush.
3. Recoat when it holds no fingerprint. Second coat perpendicular to the first, same day.
4. Inspect for pinholes and thin spots before you stop.

Wait about 2 days after the last coat of membrane, then seal: three coats of Titan Shield Gloss or two of Sealer MATTE, about 6–8 mil per coat, with Non-Skid Additive mixed in. The membrane still needs its full 7-day cure before heavy use.

You’ll need: Nu-Lift Cleaner · Stone Soap · Power Cleaner if oily

1. New concrete, fully cured (about a month): Prep A — Stone Soap.
2. Mineral deposits or efflorescence: Prep D — Nu-Lift, then Stone Soap.
3. Oil or grease: Prep B first — Power Cleaner, then Stone Soap.
4. Existing or unknown coating: Prep C — Power Cleaner, Nu-Lift, Power Cleaner, then a test patch.
5. Let it dry completely — below 3% residual moisture.

Mask everything that isn’t being sealed. Pull the tape before the sealer fully cures, or it tears the edge.

You’ll need: woven roller or airless sprayer (17 tip)

1. Stir well before use to mix the pigment.
2. Roll on a thin, even first coat. It goes on milky and dries clear.
3. Let each coat dry — about 30–45 minutes, up to 2 hours when humid.
4. Apply a minimum of three coats, about 6–8 mil each. Porous surfaces may need more.

Full cure is typically around 48 hours at 72°F — longer when cool or humid. Keep traffic off until then.

You’ll need: Nu-Lift Cleaner · Stone Soap · Power Cleaner if oily

1. New concrete, fully cured (about a month): Prep A — Stone Soap.
2. Mineral deposits or efflorescence: Prep D — Nu-Lift, then Stone Soap.
3. Oil or grease: Prep B first — Power Cleaner, then Stone Soap.
4. Existing or unknown coating: Prep C — Power Cleaner, Nu-Lift, Power Cleaner, then a test patch.
5. Let it dry completely — below 3% residual moisture.

Mask everything that isn’t being sealed. Pull the tape before the sealer fully cures.

You’ll need: ¼" woven roller or airless sprayer (17 tip)

1. Stir well before use.
2. Roll on a thin, even first coat. It goes on white or milky and dries to a natural matte finish.
3. Let it dry — about 30–45 minutes, up to 2 hours when humid.
4. Apply a minimum of two coats, about 6–8 mil each. No separate primer — it’s self-priming.

Full cure takes about 18 hours at 90°F and up to 48 hours at 45°F. Keep traffic off until then.

You’ll need: Non-Skid Additive · Titan Shield Gloss or Sealer MATTE

1. Lightly shake the Non-Skid container.
2. Empty it into the matching container of sealer — one per gallon or per 5-gallon pail.
3. Mix thoroughly.

Prep and apply the sealer following its own instructions — three coats of Titan Shield Gloss or two of Sealer MATTE. Keep stirring as you go so the grit stays mixed through.

Keep traffic off until the sealer has fully cured.

You’ll need: Nu-Lift Cleaner · Stone Soap · Power Cleaner if oily

1. Weathered concrete, efflorescence or pool-chemical deposits: Prep D — Nu-Lift, then Stone Soap.
2. Oil, grease or sunscreen film: Prep B first.
3. Let it dry completely — below 3% residual moisture.

You’ll need: PreStain Color

Apply thin, even coats of PreStain and let it dry 12–24 hours.

You’ll need: Titan Shield Gloss · Non-Skid Additive

1. Mix Non-Skid Additive into the sealer before you start.
2. Apply a minimum of three thin coats, about 6–8 mil each, letting each dry about 30–45 minutes.

Let the sealer cure fully — about 48 hours at 72°F — before foot traffic. Keep undissolved chlorine tablets and granules off the deck afterwards.